Rieti, Part Two

After the theater we headed to the Via Roma, Rieti's main street/shopping district. Scattered throughout the storefronts are large medieval wooden doors. I was wondering what type of people were lucky enough to live behind these doors, within a short walking distance of bakeries, good food, and the Velino river. I knew we were taking an underground tour to see the ancient Roman viaduct and assumed it was a tourist-y type arrangement, not a private residence. What's left of the viaduct is under buildings constructed during medieval and renaissance eras. We stopped in a doorway amid the souvenir shops, tourists and shoppers. Flavia rang the buzzer on the large door and we were greeted by a gentleman named Mario. We entered the palazzo and above us was the sky (right). He took us down a large flight of mossy stairs to the 'basement,' which had a diagram of the viaduct. I like how Mario's mountaineering helmet is casually hanging next to it.

At the bottom of the stairs was a kitchen and dining area. Flavia told me this was where Mario and friends would eat huge meals and discuss current or future adventures as part of the Club di Alpinisimo Italiano Rieti. I wish Ethan had been with me to meet this guy.

Mario resembled an Italian version of Picasso, but better looking. He was, like many Italians, a smoker, but incredibly youthful and vibrant. You could tell he enjoyed life (another Italian trait!). His most recent expedition with his band of explorers had been in 2000, when he went to the North Pole. 
He led us into the dining room and Flavia translated his introduction before we walked down stone stairs to another subterranean level. The stairs are behind Mario in the picture on the left (above). I love the huge copper pot on the right (above). Here are pictures of what is left of the viaduct, from Roman republican times.

I was fascinated by this place and almost overwhelmed. It wasn't only that Romans had built the structure, which was now buried, but that it even still existed. Italy is special in that so many of the historic structures have been re-used. I was in an ancient viaduct, probably in a medieval house, in a town St. Francis has visited, which was then home to the papal seat, was invaded, conquered, unified, etc., etc. Most recently the structure I was standing in was a gathering place of Italian mountaineers, some of the most pioneering souls in history. Levels upon levels of history in one spot. That's what I came to love about Italy in my short time there.

  
This room on the right was a little sketchy, and had been another smoking and drinking area for the alpine club. I said we could plan a trip back to excavate it (like I know anything about that being an art history major), and told Mario we'd do it for free if he would cook for us. Roberto translated this to Mario, who laughed and gently corrected me -- I would do the cooking, not him.












As we walked through Mario's basement/storage area, remnants of his active life were all around: mountain bikes, kids bikes, lots of gear, antique furniture, and this: (left) the sled he used on the North Pole expedition. How cool! I knew I was a dork for taking a picture but I knew I would forget to tell Ethan if I didn't.
We left Mario's house and walked down the Via Roma to see another ruin, the original Roman bridge, which crossed the Velino river. The info sheet Roberto had prepared for us explained that this bridge was used from the Roman era up until 1932, when it was abandoned for safety reasons and a new bridge was built. Below is a collapsed part of the ancient bridge. There were goose eggs in the weeds.

Our group checking out the old bridge.

The lovely Velino, looking up river.

We had covered a lot of territory in three hours and had to eat before stopping by a pipe organ concert (Flavia's mother's idea) and driving back to the convent. Flavia checked with a pizzeria across the river and reserved some outdoor tables for us. We still needed to pass some time so she took us on a short stroll to show us the high school. At left: Shannon crossing the Piazza S. Francesco, on the way to the school, which was originally a Franciscan monastery. As you can see, I was always far behind the group. Shannon would wait for me, that's why she's in a lot of my pictures!

Crossing the Velino River. This picture reminds me so much of Missoula, MT (Montana is mountain in Italian).

The clearest water.

Looking back at the high school from the boardwalk.

After our pizza dinner (sausage and fungi, too yummy!), it was time to walk to the Basilica di San Domenico, for the inauguration of their huge pipe organ. Originally we thought the organist, Paolo Bottini would be playing Vivaldi, but it turned out it was going to be Verdi instead. I didn't realize at the time, there's a huge difference. The church (again) was utterly beautiful, and the organ had been built specifically for it.  Here's a link for more information (it can be translated).

http://www.organosandomenicorieti.it/

We arrived in time for the concert and Roberto even quietly had the church speaker welcome our little group of 'American archaeologists.' It was a special moment.  Several people in the audience were in pure bliss listening to the music. A few of us fought to stay awake. The music was a little heavier than we were expecting! You'll see what I mean below -- just press play.

We couldn't make it through the whole concert, probably due to pure exhaustion. We left quietly during an intermission, walked back to the car, and drove to the convent. In the morning we would have to leave at 7am to head into Rome.